A Brief History of Lingerie
The in thing at the time was for a more separated look for breasts and a corsetiere by the name of M Leroy (who designed the wedding corset for Marie Luise of Austria when she married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1810) designed a model which he called a 'divorce', allegedly because of the 'separation' involved. The most significant aspect of this perhaps, was the fact that women were able to dress and undress themselves due to more elaborate lacing methods.
During the 1840s the extremely exaggerated shape for women caused whalebone to make a comeback with huge hoops and crinolines that were covered with all kinds of fabric and fineries. Unfortunately for women, it became the in thing to have waists small enough for a man to put his hands around and the need for even harder waist-cinching became the feminine nightmare of the day.
It wasn't long before hoops and crinolines were replaced by the soft 'S' silhouette. This style still used the corset but added a bustle to the back creating an exaggerated posterior. Once again it was the women who had to suffer for in thing, needing to stand most of the time due to the cumbersome bustle on their posteriors. Obviously men found this appealing because it gave them more opportunities to stare at the ######y women with their large bustles.
As more innovation came to in thing design, greater varieties of corsets were brought out. During the morning, a lady could wear a lightly-boned corset for promenading
corset tops, an elastic corset for riding sidesaddle, a boneless corset for a trip to the beach and a jersey corset for riding her penny farthing. The corsetry industry was in its heyday!
Towards the end of the 19th century the corset supported not only the breasts but also the newly developed stocking. Stockings were held up by garters and suspenders which were then attached to the corset. These devices, although a triumph of design, probably added yet another frustrating dimension to the in thing-conscious feminine of the day.
By the beginning of the 20th century, corsets were being laced down as far as the knee. But many people didn't like that style, and in thing designers were leaning towards an uncorseted, more free-flowing style.
######y lingerie was about to take a whole new dimension. With the advent of the industrial revolution, and the introduction of the sewing machine, Germany and France opened the first corset factories.
In 1910 New York socialite Mary Phelps Jacob brought out a new type of brassiere. Not satisfied with the corset stiffened with whalebone which she was meant to wear under a new sheer evening gown, Mary worked with her maid to stitch two silk handkerchiefs together with some pink ribbon and cord. It was much softer and shorter than a corset and it allowed the breasts to be shaped in their natural condition.
Mary Phelps Jacob was the first person to patent an item of underwear named 'Brassiere', the name derived from the old French word for 'upper arm'. shortly after, she sold the brassiere patent to the Warner Brothers Corset Company in Bridgeport
######y lingerie, Connecticut, for $1,500 (over $25,600 today).
In 1917 the United States War Industries Board asked women to stop buying corsets to free up metal for the production of war materials. This step released some 28,000 tons of metal
bandage dress, sufficient to build two battleships.
Allegedly the success of the brassiere is due primarily to The Great War. The Great War changed gender roles forever, putting many women to work in factories and wearing uniforms for the first time. Women needed practical, comfortable undergarments. Warner went on to rake in more than 15 dollars from the brassiere patent over the next thirty years.
The other thing to consider in the downfall of the corset was that The Great War had taken its toll on the number of men. This meant more competition for finding a man so women needed to look their ######iest!
With the Roaring Twenties and its sophisticated parties, in thing was turned on its head, the boyish look was in. The pursual of flat chests and stomachs along with straight hips and buttocks led to the creation of the liberty bodice, the chemise
corset tops, and bloomers which were loose-fitting and light. For the first time pastel-colored underwear appeared to replace plain old-fashioned white. To enhance the boyish look the first brassieres were designed to flatten the breasts. What happened to the corset? The posterior part that held up the stockings was shortened and became the suspender belt.
The full-figured look came back in the 1930s. The feminine look once again became the in thing. Women were encouraged to look well-proportioned with a full-figure while remaining fairly slim in the hips. Now women had a full set of underwear to help with the image: breast-enhancing brassieres, elastic suspender belts, not forgetting the girdle, which kept all the curves in their designated place.
The 1930s also saw one of the biggest advancements in the underwear industry when the Dunlop Rubber company developed Lastex, an elastic, two-way stretch textile made from the fine thread of a chemically modified rubber called Latex. This could be interwoven with fabric which allowed the industry to make underwear in a multitude of sizes to appropriately fit a woman's body.
The arrival of World War II and its shortages meant that Germany was unable to import the fabrics they had used before then and their industry failed. Forever inventive, people started making underwear knitted at home out of materials to hand. Not the ######iest of lingerie but at least they kept warm.
After the war underwear consisted of basic brassieres and suspender belts. This was acceptable to many women but the teenage girl, just coming out of the hardship of the war years, became a target market. These young women couldn't wait to blossom into women and wearing lingerie was a fantastic step towards achieving that goal. The German underwear industry brought out lingerie sets that appealed to these young girls and the industry never looked back.
In the U.S., the underwear industry was trying to create something new and cutting edge. Women were bombarded with all kinds of undergarments and top clothing to help them look ######y. The film producer Howard Hughes brought out a new brassiere, a special wire-reinforced design for Jane Russell. This caused the censors throw a tantrum about miss Russell's breasts being blatantly exposed all because of Hughes' terrifically innovative brassiere improvements.
The 1960s was a bad decade for the underwear industry thanks to the rise of women's emancipation movements. Feminists burned their brassieres and many lingerie manufacturers were forced out of business. However Lycra had just been developed and women began to wear tight-fitting leggings. The iconic in thing item of that decade however, was arguably the ######y little mini-skirt and the demand for bikini briefs. Famously, for a scant moment in time, topless swimsuits and topless dresses were the rage. But, unfortunately for most men and fortunately for the in thing industry, they were merely a 'flash-in-the-pan'!
The 1980s saw the wire-reinforced brassiere become the number one best seller. While these are still very popular today, the best seller at the moment is the push-up bra. Statistically the average woman from the USA owns six brassieres, one of which is a strapless bra and one is a color other than white.
The modern feminine shape varies and is not as susceptible to fashion trends as in previously. However, the charming ###### will always looks breathtaking in ######y, slinky lingerie!
So, there we are. From the push-up corsets of ancient Greece to the push-up brassiere of today.
######y lingerie? Nothing ever really changes!
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