News about Prada
In the end, the European spring collections — with a little help from an American — resembled a decent enough party that suddenly got better when a couple of drag queens crashed it.
The kind of artificiality in taste and self-presentation that Susan Sontag described nearly 50 years ago in “Notes on Camp,” and which Marc Jacobs invoked in a printed quotation at the Louis Vuitton show on Wednesday, gave the collections a last-minute jolt of adrenaline.
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As strikingly handsome as the crop-wielding models looked in their riding coats and breeches at Hermès, also on Wednesday, Jean Paul Gaultier’s final collection for the classic luxury maker could not be the last word on fashion for next spring.
And as for the many ruffled shirtwaists at Valentino, in tonal and point d’esprit layers of ivory and beige organza and chiffon, they seemed for young ladies too proper and self-conscious of their presence in fashion magazines to risk freaking anyone out. The designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, said they envisioned a contemporary romantic who from morning to night wears an elaborate chemise.
Unfortunately, they meant this quite literally: the substantial difference between the frilly day chemises and those for evening was that the night versions were now to the ankles.
No, it fell to Mr. Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, with her younger Miu Miu line, to turn fashion into a spectacle worthy of a spotlight — and to imply that the glamour is necessarily artificial. Both designers are interested in the cult of celebrity. Mr. Jacobs alluded to it in a brilliant show a couple of years back for his own label, and later when he cast Victoria Beckham for his advertisements.
Ms. Prada reacts with a kind of squeamish delight to the banality of glamour. She sees what we see when we watch the reality- and talent-show stars, the fame gate-crashers. She feels our pain — and celebrates it.
Even if you are not one of the millions of people who watch “American Idol” or “Dancing With the Stars,” you would have understood that Ms. Prada was making a fairly simple but profound comment about who has the right to say what is tasteful and pretty, and who doesn’t
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In themselves, the knee-length silk dresses in brightly colored prints of large stars and Art Nouveau flowers, or in solid panels of color with flashes of silver, are exhilarating. This modest style of dress — long-sleeved, belted, often pleated — has made a comeback this season. The prints seem strongly influenced by Art Nouveau designs, as do the patterns of boxy leather jackets, but they also deliberately verge on the tacky.
News about Prada
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