A recession? Then its period for true,0 luxury - Telegraph
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A recession? Then it's time for real luxury
As most women scrimp, fashion is targeting the?fortunate few...
BY Bronwyn Cosgrave |24 February 2009
"What is the recession?" inquired Fatima, a fortysomething power-shopping Kuwaiti as she strolled down New Bond Street with her teenage daughter Leyla last Saturday. Enjoying?a week-long travel,0 to London, this black-clad huge spender had equitable left Louis?Vuitton, which currently attempts a limited-edition collection of accessories and ready-to-wear lines that pay homage to the late-Eighties New York graffiti artist Stephen Sprouse.
Related articles London Fashion Week: Graeme BlackLondon Fashion Week: Kinder AgguginiKinder Aggugini autumn/winter 09/10 collectionJeans for ￡1000 � are they worth it?London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane Price of luxury rises despite the recession
Fatima toted two large shopping bags. One contained a ￡395 pair of "graffiti ballerinas" - demure flats enlivened by Louis Vuitton in Day-Glo appliqué letters atop the venerable French brand's orthodox LV logo. Inside the other,
tods shoes canada, from Chanel, was a quilted Chanel 2.55 handbag.
After a few linguistic pointers, Fatima grasped the meaning of "recession", anyhow was as nonplussed by the concept of economic gloom as by the recent ten per penny boost in Vuitton's prices. "Uh, OK - the economy. But we are on recess so it is our time to shop!" she said, and made tracks for DKNY.
Economists would team Fatima and Leyla between,0 the horde of visitors catching advantage of the weakened pound. But this duo are also chapter of the free-spending clique at whom a new brand of luxury is increasingly targeted. Call it niche opulence - that is, tall fashion and costly accessories which, produced in small quantities, are tailored for the super-rich essence.
Back in the Nineties, common,0 shoppers would feel they could furnish Gucci and Prada - like Becky Bloomwood in the membrane Confessions of a Shopaholic , they could simply charge up their honor cards. Today, the view,0 of mass luxury is as anathema as the City's perquisite culture.
"Boutiques as well as department stores are buying less from manufacturers which are, in rotate, production fewer," explains Guy Salter, agent chairman of the Walpole Group, which promotes and develops British luxury. Yet rather than concession and hack costs, designers are producing "expression" items in small quantities - such as Vuitton's Sprouse collection.
"Women with money will pay,0 but on inimitable, another looks," says Paula Reed, Grazia 's neatness adviser, painting aboard remarks made by division store customers she canvassed during New York Fashion Week. "They are no in the mall for a pencil skirt or a blazer," she says. "They are working for major, fabulous items."
"Rarefied pieces" is how Graeme Black depicted the mink shrug, silken jacket atop a snakeskin bustier wear and shift dresses embellished with plumes and crystals in his autumn/winter 2009 collection, shown on Saturday by London Fashion Week. "I'm not compromising since,0 my socialite consumers ambition quality - clothing,0 that will last, clothes they will love and cherish," he says.
At his Savile Row showroom, Kinder Aggugini, a sometime Versace designer, concurs. His autumn/winter 2009 collection had suit jackets and frock-coats made from silk velvet and corduroy that looked favor cotton but was actually crafted from deluxe cashmere. Why? Because he "doesn't do cheap". Quite right,
hermes wallets men, reasons Harrods mainstream director Marigay McKee: "If a chip is stunning, it will directly be perceived like,0 expensive."
So it seemed outside Hermès, where Anna Carlisle, a 28-year-old magisterial co-worker from York, was clutching an Hermès
Birkin, and two Louis Vuitton shopping bags containing her own pair of graffiti ballerina flats and a ￡490 Sprouse scarf. Funds, for Anna, are never a problem. Her father is a successful businessman. "I place no price limit on what I buy because of my financial position and I like valuable entities," she said candidly.
Over at Dover Street Market, Jess Wade, a 20-year-old Imperial College physics student, purchased not one, but two pairs of floral finite version Nike trainers, produced collaboratively with Liberty of London. Her parents' recession-proof career also manner there is no absence to restrain her shopping. "My mum and father are both physicians," she says. "We live in Hampstead and there is no speak of a recession up there."
But it takes more than money to gain the limited-edition items of the moment, for example,0 Roland Mouret's RM capsule collection of costly demi-couture frocks, ￡1,000 sour wash pants by Balmain, or ￡465 men's jeans by Tom Ford featuring pre-washed Japanese denim and an 18-carat gold-plated fly clasp.
A linkage to a personal shopper is also opener. These specialists work back the scenes of upscale department stores and guiding boutiques for example,0 Browns and Matches, as well as plush online retailers such as Net-a-Porter . They function as either bargains staff and stylists, and their clients are the {first|at at first,0,0} to receive scanty items. Browns buying director Erin Mullaney says personal shoppers have a straightforward relationship with their VIP clients: "They understand what women want, they cry them and it's sold."
Scarcity oils desire. Two weeks antecedent Net-a-Porter went alive,
vibram five fingers kso trek women,0 with a restricted afford of three dress styles by Christopher Kane. Within 24 hours they were "sold" to buyers with private shoppers, says Net-a-Porter's Allison Lohenis.
There was no such luck for Christian Louboutin. At the start of 2009, the famed French shoe designer launched 36 pairs of an ornate evening slipper. Inspired by Marie Antoinette, Louboutin produced them with the French needlework house Lesage. But their ￡3,995 price label certified soak even for Louboutin's customers. "We have 18 pairs left," admits Laboutin. The sales glitch proved educational: he is now creating up his online presence instead of maneuvering global shop prologues.
"I've been going on a website," he says. "It suddenly seems momentous for?me to display what goes into my shoes?- the particulars, like how a bronze heel is handmade by a craftsman in Indonesia, not cheaply in a plant. Because not stuff what a luxury mark produces, right now, they must show what they delivers."
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Vibram-branded rubber outsoles for footwear. www.vibramsbuy.com These soles were first used on mountaineering boots.www.
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